Arriving at this international hub of shipping and aviation one has usually crossed several time zones, is sleep-deprived, and is feeling rather disorientated. It’s therefore best not to do any sightseeing on your first day. Rather take time to rest and recover. Have a shower and a nap, then stroll along the Marina waterfront or one of the beaches. Savour what is bound to be balmy warmth after the icy cold of Europe or elsewhere in the northern hemisphere, and join the sun-seeking tourists eager to acquire a tan. Save for later the sights, and shopping opportunities for which this city is infamous.
“Winter” time is recommended, for no-one in their right mind would venture here during the blistering summer months when the humidity is a stifling 95%, and dining outdoors even at night is unthinkable. The restaurants are then firmly ensconced behind air-conditioned glass, overlooking the city’s forest of gleaming skyscrapers or seascapes. But, this is when hotel and restaurant prices are at their lowest.
The best time to go is December to February when temperatures seldom exceed 27°C, and there is occasional rain to settle the dust generated by the endless building, and blown in from the desert. Spring (March-April) is doable (around 30°C), as is autumn (November). Dine out on your first night, if staying in a self-catering apartment, and postpone thinking about groceries until the next day. Many of the high-rise apartment blocks have a small supermarket on the ground floor, while larger supermarkets, such as the Carrefour or Waitrose chains, can be found in the malls. I recommend their ready-made curries and casseroles, to which you can add fresh veg at home to save costs. (“Pork for non-Muslim customers” is confined to separate, closed-in sections.) Bulk buying is of course only possible if you’re hiring a car. Driving is on the right-hand side, and while pedestrian crossings are observed most of the time, I found it rather fast and furious, aided and abetted by the noticeable penchant for luxury sports cars in this oil-rich country.
The United Arab Emirates was formerly a British protectorate and consists of seven emirates, six of which were founded on 2 December 1971 as a federation, after the withdrawal of British treaty obligations: Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain and Fujairah. The seventh, Ras al Khaimah, joined the federation on 10 February 1972. The country is located on the Persian Gulf in Western Asia, at the southeast end of the Arabian Peninsula. Oman lies to the east and Saudi Arabia to the south and west, while maritime borders are shared with Qatar to the west and Iran to the north. Human occupation here has been traced back to migrations from Africa around 125,000 years BC.
Since the discovery of oil in the 1960’s, Sheikh Zayed (1918-2004, ruler of Abu Dhabi and the first President of the UAE, oversaw the development of the Emirates, and steered oil revenues into healthcare, education and infrastructure. Today the country is much less reliant on oil and gas than before, and focuses rather on tourism and business. The UAE government does not levy income tax but there is corporate tax and VAT.
It doesn’t matter in which order you visit my suggested destinations for your five or more days in Dubai, but on my second day, unable to restrain my curiosity any longer, my daughter and I headed to the souks (traditional markets.)
We took the highly efficient Metro from Damac station near her flat in the Dubai Marina, which, like all the stations along the line, looks more like something in outer space than a metro station. We changed from the Red to the Green Line at the Bur Juman junction, and alighted at Al Ras Station in the Deira neighbourhood. The ride was just over half an hour on the spotless overhead railway, in one of two carriages reserved for women and children only.
Al Ras and Diera, on the northern side of the Dubai Creek, are the oldest parts of the city. Here fishermen and pearl traders lived and plied their trade – the original raison-d’être of the settlement before oil was discovered in the 1960’s. This bustling neighbourhood is a warren of exotic stalls and stores, rich with the aromas of spices, perfumes and cooking. 
If you have visited the souks in North Africa, such as those in Morocco, Algiers or Cairo, you may be disappointed. These colourful emporia are Arabic, vibrantly atmospheric and centuries old, while the Dubai markets seem to lack genuine atmosphere, and are run by Indians who badger European visitors relentlessly. I came away with several purchases I later regretted, and several thousand ZAR poorer as a consequence of some shifty sleight of hand with my credit card. A “cashmere” pashmina turned out not to be, and the dried fruits and nuts were excessively over-priced when converted into Rands. But the scents and sounds have had some decades to generate, and certainly provide tourists with several hours of amusing entertainment. People-watching is quite an experience: Afghan men with cartloads of goods, African women in brightly-coloured head dress, large groups of Chinese tourists, gregarious Latin shoppers, and everyone else from all corners of the globe.
The souks selling teas, dried fruits, nuts and aromatic spices display large burlap sacks and baskets filled with familiar herbs and spices such as saffron, cardamom, turmeric, cloves, ginger and dried chilies, and some more unusual items: sumac, frankincense from Somalia and Oman, and myrrh, dried rosebuds for tea, sulphur “for skin allergies”, many curiously shaped and scented items I had never seen before, and glittering menthol crystals: fill a cup with boiling water, dissolve a small piece, and inhale a brew that will clear your sinuses for a week.
These stalls also sell incense burners, sheesha pipes, ornaments, costume jewelry and gorgeously-coloured glass Turkish lanterns. Others sell clothes, henna products, traditional robes, cheap plastic toys, footwear, textiles and trinkets.
Abra boats ply the Dubai Creek – Al Khor in Arabic – ferrying tourists and traders across to either side, along with the dhows, making for a clamourously picturesque waterway which has seen trade across the Indian Ocean to Iran, India, and the west coast of Africa for centuries. The Deira Old Souk abra station is, along with the Dhow Wharfage, the Women’s Museum (“try on a burka”), Heritage House (1890), Museum of the Poet Al Oqaili (1923) and Al Ahmadiya School (1912), one of the interesting heritage sites, some of which will have to wait until next time.
While prior research informed me about the Gold Souk – who buys this highly ornate but magnificently wrought gilded glory? – the Spice, Perfume and Covered Souks and Naif Market, we were amused to pass “Mattress” and “Utensil” Souks in the winding alleyways. Here a cheaper meal can also be obtained in a small café – a variety of Middle Eastern meze – Emirati, Lebanese or Egyptian – falafel, kunafa and succulent baklava with strong coffee, as well as Indian fare. Shoppers are assured of the quality of the government-regulated gold, while the ubiquitous touts pressing visitors to buy “Rolex” watches and “Prada” bags are to be avoided. 
The Perfume Souk can be found by following the scents alone. Here, amidst hundreds of heady perfumes, the stores sell Arabic attars – oil-based perfumes poured into tiny ornate glass flacons for the customers. The most expensive perfumes contain oud which comes from agarwood, a dark fragrant resinous wood used in incense, perfume, and small carvings. It is formed in aquilaria trees in the Far East when they become infected with a certain type of mould. The exotic quality of these scents recall a line from Shakespeare: All the perfumes of Arabia will not sweeten this little hand, spoken by Lady Macbeth after the murder of King Duncan.
To compliment exploration of the old Al Ras and Diera districts, spend day 3 wandering around the historic Bur Dubai on the southern bank of the Creek. This saltwater estuary is the original site where the Bani Yas tribe settled, and its waters were vital for what used to be Dubai’s main forms of economy: pearl diving and fishing. Massive cruise ships can be seen moored at the mouth of the Creek on the other side of the man-made breakwater.
Dubai in 1822
It is a short walk from the Al Fahidi metro station to the Al Fahidi Historic District, an area built during the early 1900’s by Persian merchants. By the 1970’s the buildings had fallen into disrepair, and the residents began moving away to newer neighbourhoods. But concerned residents, expats, and even Prince Charles prevented the demolition of the area in the 1980’s.
My first stop in Al Fahidi was the Coffee Museum which I found simply by following my nose. Housed in a historic Emirati home, bins overflow with beans from all over the world, there is an impressive antique collection, and visitors can taste and enjoy a cuppa of this mood-enhancing beverage brewed from any cultivar of your choice.
There is also the picturesque Arabian Tea House, where customers can sit beneath a creepered pergola on white wicker chairs and turquoise benches in the sun-dappled courtyard of an old pearl merchant’s house. 
Nearby is the small but excellent Dubai Museum, housed in the Al Fahidi Fort which was built from coral and limestone in around 1800, though the first tower dates from around 1787. 
In the outside courtyard stand bronze cannon, traditional wooden fishing boats, a well, and a reconstructed palm-frond seaside hut (arish) with a wind tower. This mechanism, barjeel in Arabic – burlap sheets spread across wooden spokes – allows cool air to enter and circulate through a dwelling in hot weather. It is an ingenious form of non-electrical air-conditioning traditional in the UAE.
Inside the museum one first encounters a display of interesting traditional musical instruments: bagpipes, double pipes, whistles, drums, plucked (lyre) and bowed (gheychack) stringed instruments, and rattles.
The most intriguing is a rattle skirt covered with goats’ hooves, which, when tied around the waist and shimmied, presumably provides a soft rattling sound.
In the cool below-ground interior there are displays featuring models of various craftsmen applying their trades: a blacksmith, a sailor, a potter, a fisherman. 
Most interesting is the pearl-diving exhibit, with an old video showing these hard-working divers wearing leather gloves and nose-clips descending to incredible depths, and traders weighing the valuable contents of thousands of oysters thus harvested in small brass scales.
Another section displays archaeological finds from Al Quasais (3000 BC), Umayyad and Jumeirah (2000 – 1000 BC): pots and other utensils, weapons and jewelry. There are tombs, an excavated skeleton, and a model archaeologist. Throughout the museum sounds, visual effects and electronic guides accompany the dioramas. Emphasis is made on the natural resources of the Dubai environment: the dessert (the Bedouin culture, camel trade and care), the sea (pearls, fishing, boating and transport to other lands) and the heavens – navigation by the stars.
The ancient history of the area actually goes back to the early Minoan period. The site where Dubai now stands used to be a vast mangrove swamp which by 3000 BC had dried up and become uninhabitable. It’s thought that Bronze Age nomadic cattle herders were the first to settle there and by 2500 BC they had established a thriving date palm plantation – the first time the site was successfully used for agriculture.
Don’t bother with a museum guide; all the exhibits are clearly labelled in Arabic and English.
The Al Fahidi Historic District also includes the Alserkal Cultural Foundation, Majlis Gallery (founded in 1989 by British expat Allison Collins), Diwan Mosque (tours only available for non-Muslims with a guide) and Coin Museum. The Shindagha Historic District, located at the mouth of the Creek, includes the splendid Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House,
the Saruq Al Hadid Archaeology Museum, the Crossroads of Civilizations Museum – highlighting Dubai as a trade link between East and West, and the Heritage and Diving Villages. These will all have to wait for my next visit. (As will the entire Jumeirah district.) But my Creek-side stroll brought me to the Bur Dubai Souk, down along Hindi Lane, where all the little shops were disappointingly closed (12:00 -16:00). 
I was again harassed by over-zealous vendors until, emboldened by the previous day’s encounters, I told them that if they would only leave us women in peace we would be more inclined to peruse and purchase their wares, instead of being frightened off by their forceful manner. 
Bur Dubai is the city’s oldest souk, and also houses the Textile Souk, an Aladdin’s cave of wondrous silks, cotton, satin, cashmere, wool and velvet.
The souks are marvelously colourful and vibrant places to stroll and immerse oneself in exotic wares, hand-woven textiles and exotic goods that have traveled along the Silk Road through this place for centuries. Have a freshly squeezed juice and a paper bag of samosas or adass ballou’ (lentil patties), enjoy the cacophony of Arabic, Hindi and other Oriental languages, and don’t be afraid to haggle; it’s expected.
Haggling of course won’t be acceptable in the malls – gigantic emporia housing all the best-known chain stores and designer labels. And so on Day 4 I went to Dubai Mall in Downtown Dubai, the biggest mall in the world, with over 1,200 stores, which finally opened in 2008 and boasts more than ample opportunities for shopping, entertainment and leisure. It is located near the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world, which opened two years later in 2010. On a clear day the view from the observation deck on level 124 is apparently absolutely stunning, and is topped by the luxurious At The Top Sky Lounge on the 148th floor and The Lounge on levels 152-154. 
I took the metro to the nearest station (Dubai Mall/Burj Khalifa) and walked for a good 15-20 minutes along a covered travellators to the Mall entrance. The entrance hall is lined with souvenir stalls which seemed cheaper than those at the “Duty Free” airport shops.
My first stop, for old time’s sake and to replenish low blood sugar levels, was at Angela for the delicious signature hot chocolate. It was just as delicious as the flagship restaurant on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, but a very different experience.
I watched the passing crowds with fascination: ladies in hijab and other wealthy shoppers being ferried around the endless corridors in open-topped cars, white-robed gentlemen with pointed beards and turbans bound with cord, and hordes of Western tourists window-shopping and looking for Christmas gifts.
This Mall houses not only cinemas, an Olympic-sized ice-rink, an indoor ski resort, and Souk Al Bahar, but also an Underwater Zoo and a three-storey-high Aquarium.
Much of the latter is visible from the outside, and one can watch giant sting rays, turtles, sharks and other sea creatures floating lazily by. Tickets are required to enter the walk-through tunnel, where visitors are fully surrounded by these marine wonders.
On the ground floor visitors can pilot a virtual Emirates A380 in the ultra-modern flight simulator. Famous emporia such a Galerie Lafayette and Bloomingdales are a visual feast, but the magnificent gowns and clothes on display are prohibitively expensive. 
The “Dubai Dino”, originally all the way from Wyoming, is stationed near the Souk – a genuine Diplodocus fossil, a large long-necked dinosaur, measuring over 7 meters high and 24 meters long.
The Mall boasts several expensive household and furniture stores, European-style coffee shops with scrumptious pastries and cakes, and restaurants featuring every cuisine imaginable, from Lebanese to Italian.
Fashion Avenue includes imports from all the top designer boutiques such as Cartier, Chanel, Gucci, Max Mara, Valentino and many more. Porter services are available, and personal shoppers can assist high-end customers with the latest and greatest choices.
The spectacular Dubai Fountains perform at specific times in a lake flanking the Mall and the Burj Khalifa, and these drew my attention when I heard fresh blasts of Arabic pop music and saw the crowds converging on the vast glass windows overlooking the lake. More impressive at night, this is indeed a fabulous spectacle.
By Day 5 I had had enough history and merchandising, and felt in need of reconnecting with nature. While a camel ride into the desert did not appeal, nor quad-biking, sandboarding or any of the other adventure sports on offer, I headed to the nearest beach to Jess’s flat: JBR Beach.
Strolling along the Marina Walk I found myself hemmed in by a forest of sky-scrapers, and saw tourists enjoying the sights from the water on a traditional dhow cruise. This New Dubai hot-spot offers visitors and locals a wide choice of waterside restaurants, as well as irresistible retail therapy at Dubai Marina Mall. I nearly jumped out of my skin when someone whizzed overhead on the XLine, the longest urban zip-line in the world. There are also marinas, as the name of the area suggests, where dozens of flashy private yachts are moored. 
JBR is a lovely long white sandy beach with a playground and spotless facilities – showers and toilets requiring coins for operation, but free change rooms. Food and drink outlets line the beachfront, and I bought a delicious takeaway chicken salad for a picnic lunch at the Cheesecake Factory, of all places.
Here I heard almost exclusively Russian, folk who like myself were eager for the heat and sunshine. The waters of the Persian Gulf are murky turquoise in colour, cold initially, and then refreshing. The beach below the shoreline dips suddenly, and visitors are warned of the treacherous currents lurking beneath. I was too intent on watching my belongings which I left on a (free) wooden chaise to venture out for too long. But crime is apparently low in Dubai, and I was told that I needn’t have worried. 
A pair of Arab drivers brought their camels onto the beach, and the delighted tourists soon clustered around these mild-mannered beasts, eagerly taking pictures of themselves and of each other. 
There are several other popular beaches in Dubai, namely those at Jumeirah, and Sunset Beach and Night Beach, both near the iconic 7-star Burj Al Arab hotel.
But I soaked up the sun happily, knowing that once I returned to Stockholm I would not receive such pleasure again for a long time. Dubai is a fun and exciting place to visit, though I do suggest that shopping, whether in a mall, souk, or flea market, is done mostly with one’s eyes and not one’s card; the persuasiveness of the vendors can result in some regrets. Cash is better than card, especially when driving a hard bargain. There is heaps to do for the kids, and bars and clubs for young adults (alcohol available in some places.) There is a vibrant art scene with numerous galleries now exhibiting famous contemporary artists, and walking, boat and bus tours. As I encountered in Istanbul and Morocco, there are numerous fresh juice stalls, especially orange juice, and the toilets everywhere are modern, well-equipped and spotless.
Transport is excellent: taxis are fast and comfortable, except at rush hour, and there are safe alternatives such as Uber and Careem, sourced using the apps. The Metro, boats, trams and buses also transport workers and visitors around the city and suburbs, or you can rent a car.
Restaurants feature flavours from all around the world, including Mexican, French, Greek, American, Egyptian, Indian, Pakistani, Nepalese, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Persian, and delicious fare from other Middle and Far Eastern lands. Dining out is expensive, with self-catering in a rented apartment a cheaper option. There are of course also plenty of hotels, with or without a spa. Emirati fare features one-pot casseroles with a variety of grains, vegetables and meat or fish, flavoured with spices and topped with nuts or dried fruit. Camel milk beverages can also be seen on the menus: milk shakes, camel-chino’s, camel-latte’s, camel milk ice-cream and camel milk cheeses and creams. Camel milk chocolate is sold in the souvenir stores and supermarkets and is quite delicious.
A guide book is always useful, from the more comprehensive volumes to the ubiquitous Lonely Planet Pocket edition. Mark what you wish to see and do in your book in advance, along with prior internet research, especially for seeking out the “hidden gems” not mentioned in the books. Get a local sim card, for 24/7 data to communicate with friends and family, and to find your way around. The two main providers are DU and Etisalat. A passport is required. Electricity is “Type G” – the same as in the UK, with three narrow square sockets and pins. The currency is the UAE dirham (ZAR 4 to Dh 1 at the time of publishing: December 2019.)
Regarding visas, citizens of 49 countries, including all EU countries, the USA, the UK, Canada and Australia, are eligible for free 30-day single-entry visas on arrival in Dubai. But check the latest requirements with your nearest UAE embassy or on in the internet.
Dubai, the best known of the seven Emirates, along with Abu Dhabi, is not as bad as some believe, but it is very expensive. There are interesting historical sights to explore and learn about, and I did indeed learn much about Arabic and Muslim culture in particular, and Middle Eastern desert, religious, and home life in general. The exoticism makes it very different from a European trip, and thus a refreshing change.
The haunting sound of the muezzin calling the Faithful to Prayer from their minarets at regular intervals during the day does cause pause for contemplation, while each journey on the Metro high above the suburbs after sundown revealed a landscape dotted with beautiful white mosques bathed in light. It is a spiritual place, despite the buzz of commerce and incessant building.
It’s incredible to believe that this desert city, a remarkable oasis of commerce and camels, was no more than a fishing village but a few decades ago. In terms of human progress, Dubai was just about built in a day.
شكرا لكم – Shuk-ran.
